Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
